SMF Designs and Friends

2012-02-01T20:32:00.000-06:00

Burda Plus Spring/Summer 2012

All Styles at a Glance

Line Drawings

More of the fashion trend color blocking. Great use of small yardage.

Vest #403B

Causal weekend attire

Shirt #412

Pants #414

Like the contrasting band!

Top #405

Fun skirt for warm weather

Skirt #409

To purchase go to www.smfabric.com

2012-01-25T13:31:00.000-06:00

Pattern Review Vogue 1086

100% Cotton Lawn (sold out)

Other similar fabrics Calming Waters, Marigold Floral Print, Rust/Turquoise Tribal Print.

The fabric sews and presses beautifully. I did not prewash the fabric. I never do because my intention is to always dry clean the completed garments after wearing them. I know some people swear by prewashing for shrinking (especially cottons), but I've never had a problem with shrinking.

I used french seams in the entire garment and didn't line the dress. I thought about it, but didn't like the effect of the skirt. So, I will wear (don't laugh) a SLIP (imagine that!) with it.

The neckline was a challenge because my bust measurement and cup size is smaller than the pattern so I had to be sure that the fit was good. It's still a little roomy at the top.

I also inserted the zipper on the right side of the dress to accommodate my recent shoulder surgery which won't allow me to raise my left elbow to zip up the dress. Lesson here: I always analyze my designs and patterns before layout and cutting to make sure that I have covered my needs for fit. And then after doing that, sometimes the garments still don't fit the way we like them to!!!

Accessories

Jacket Coldwater Creek

Shoes DSW

Necklace from a Galleria costume jewelry store

Thanks Beverly for sharing your sewing journey with us!!

2012-01-21T14:17:00.001-06:00

Burda Style February 2011

All Styles at a Glance

Line Drawings

Asian Inspiration

Coat #113

Pants #115A

To color block ........

Dress #110A

........Dress #117B......

......Or not to color block.....

Dress #110B

......That is the question!

Dress #117A

DIY project pleating fabric

Maternity

Coat #124

Pants 125A

Plus Size

Wedding Dress #134

To purchase, go to www.smfabric.com

2012-01-17T16:46:00.000-06:00

Pattern Review Vogue 2624 (out of print)

82% Cotton 18% Rayon
(sold out)

The fabric was very easy to sew-no nap-and I didn't worry about matching the print. In fact, I used the reverse side for the front facing just for added interest. The side opening pockets were fun to construct.

Pattern alterations: I did increase the size of the sleeves-this is a modified kimono sleeve so I had to allow for my large upper arms and the area around the elbows for movement and tapered it back to the wrist.

Interfacing: I used medium weight woven fusible just for the collar and front opening.
Lining: I used the cotton batiste in turquoise (sold out) from Sew Much Fabric. There are no buttons.

Accessories from Talbots Outlet

If you still have this fabric in your stash, here is an inspiration on what the fabric could become!
Thanks Beverly!

2011-12-28T18:16:00.000-06:00

Last Fabrics for December 2011

Sku #SC2171

Peach/Ivory Tropical Print

57"

Silk/Cotton

$19.00

This luxurious silk/cotton lawn is a perfect kick off to spring. The fabric is light, airy and transparent (you'll need a lining or wear a camisole underneath). The print is a large tropical leaf pattern with colors of ivory, tangerine, rust, icy blue, dark brown, taupe grey and lavender. Make a blouse, full skirt or dress.

Sewl Mate

Sku #LR2141

Orange Sherbert/Natural Stripe

60"

Linen/Rayon

$15.00

Sku #L2140

Orange Sherbet Linen

60"

100% Linen

$13.00

Construction in Progress

Silk Organza

Buttons: Pearl and Gold Stud 5/8" $.75

Coral's Eye 1/2" $.35

Gutermann Thread #022, 510, 365, 355, 126, 907

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 01/2012 #116B

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5486, 5646, McCalls 6506, 6512, Simplicity 2175, 2179, Vogue 1240, 8434

Sewing Tip: Use a size 9 Universal needle.

Sku #W1168

Grey Wool

59"

100% Italian Wool

$20.00

Designer- Adam

This is a classic wool suiting from designer Adam. The fabric is from Italy and is light weight with a brushed surface. The color is a heather nickle grey. Make a tailored jacket, cape, pants or skirt.

Sewl Mate

Sku #P4161

Glacier Grey Knit

50"

100% Polyester

$12.00

Construction in Progress

Rayon Lining Grey

Ykk Invisible Zipper #578

Buttons: Silver Arrowhead 7/8" $1.75

Pop Top 1" $3.50

Gutermann Thread #110

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 12/2011 #104

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5535, 5687, McCalls 6201, 6211, Simplicity 1942, 2149, Vogue 8751,8758

Sewing Tip: When steam pressing, be sure to let the fabric completely dry before moving.

Sku# SV3169

Silk Faced Abstract Jacquard

54"

Silk Faced/Viscose Backed

$27.00

Designer-Behnaz Sarafpour

This fabric is double faced. The right side is a printed silk and the backing is a viscose jacquard. The fabric is dress weight with a very nice drape. The colors are charcoal grey, mid grey, ivory, citron yellow and pine green. Make a tunic, skirt or dress.

Sewl Mate

Grey Wool (see above)

Construction in Progress

Ykk Invisible Zipper #U892

Buttons: Stone Pearl Drop 3/4" $1.40

Olive Granite Square 1-1/8" $2.15

Gutermann Thread #022, 835, 116, 125

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 12/2011 #110

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5652, 5707, McCalls 2255, 6117, New Look 6049, Simplicity 2406, Vogue 8278, 8746

Sewing Tip: Use a single fold layout.

Sku #V3170

Pine Green Jacquard

57"

100% Viscose

$19.00

Designer-Phillip Lim

This lovely wood grain jacquard is from Phillip Lim. The hand is silky with a very good drape. The color is a rich dark pine green. Make a blouse or a wrap skirt.

Sewl Mate

Sku #CL2167

Camel Corduroy

63"

98% Cotton 2% Lycra

$12.00

Construction in Progress

Buttons:Hunter Green/Gold Pebbled 7/8" $2.50
Evergreen Pearl 13/16" $5.50

YKK Invisible Zipper #U892

Gutermann thread #784

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 12/2011 #106B

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5182, 5709, McCalls 6439, 6470, Simplicity 2305, 2549, Vogue 1168, 1226

Sewing Tip: Be sure and use "with nap" when calculating yardage.

2011-12-27T19:11:00.000-06:00

Burda Style January 2012

All Styles at a Glance

Line Drawings

Love the use of matte/shine.

dress #103

This looks great for a party, but by switching the fabric to wool this would work for the office.

dress #114A

For tall sizes

jacket #101A

The ruffles really frame the face!

jacket #107

The blush pink and black are fabulous.

skirt #104

Accessories

purse #168

shoe detail #167

scarf #166

Plus Size

Fun one arm tunic

tunic #132

Drop waist tunic

tunic #135

To purchase, go to www.smfabric.com

2011-12-18T17:36:00.000-06:00

New Fabric for December 2011

Sku #WPL3166

Grey Pinstripe Suiting

Wool/Polyester/Lycra

58"

$20.00

This is a suit weight wool blend that can be worn all year around. The background color is a mid grey with cobalt blue/white pinstripes spaced 1/2" apart and has a "hard" finish. Make a jacket, pencil skirt, pants, vest, sheath dress.

Sewl Mate

Sku #CNE3080

White Shirting

44"

65% Cotton 30% Nylon 5% Elastine

$13.00

Construction in Progress

Rayon Lining: Grey

Button: Hubcap 1" $2.00

YKK invisible zipper #578

Gutermann thread #111

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 12/2011 #111C

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5520, 5534, McCalls 6038, 6279, Simplicity 2340, 2700, Vogue 8561, 8648

Sewing Tip: Use Fork Pins to match the pinstripes.

Sku #CL2167

Camel Corduroy

63"

98% Cotton 2% Lycra

$12.00

Sew up this fabulous fine wale corduroy from Italy and stay warm this winter. This is a soft, dress weight fabric with a little stretch for comfort. The camel color is a great neutral and will work with almost any other color. Make a jacket, pants, skirt or shirtwaist dress.

Sewl Mates

Sku #CNE#3079

Chambray Suiting

44"

65% Cotton 30% Nylon 5% Elastine

$13.00

Sku #AP3157

Cream/Brown Faux Fur

60"

Acrylic/Polyester

$49.00

Construction in Progress

Button: Toffee Marble 13/16" $.65

Gutermann thread #520

YKK invisible zipper #892

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 11/2011 #133

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5616, 5685, McCalls 6387, 6440, Simplicity 2056, 2758, Vogue 1268, 8776

Sewing Tip: Even though this fabric has a nap, try changing the nap direction for a design effect.

2011-12-12T18:07:00.000-06:00

Sewing Fashionistas Christmas Party 2011

Thanks to everyone that attended this year's Christmas Party!

It's always so much fun to be with each of you.

I've learned so much from you and look forward to our 2012 meetings.

2011-12-01T19:36:00.000-06:00

Burda Style December 2011

All Styles at a Glance

Line Drawings

Like the double collar on the jacket and leather skirt.

Jacket #121

Top #122A

Skirt #124

This coat has the current trendy peter pan collar.

Coat #104

This pretty blouse is cut for tall sizes.

Blouse #119

Shorts #111A

This dress will flatter most figure types.

Dress #106B

When only a formal will do!

Dress #129

Plus Size

This is a fun party dress.....

Dress #132B

.....and this would work for an office party.

Dress #134A

DIY

To purchase, go to www.smfabric.com

2011-11-25T16:02:00.000-06:00

Pattern Review Stretch and Sew 470, skirt

Abby has accomplished a lot of sewing lately (see following 2 posts)!!

Enjoy her pattern reviews.

Sku #CS2115

Cherry Red to Cream Stripes

60"

Cotton/Spandex

$12.00

The fabric was incredibly easy to work with. Both fabric and lining were washed and dried in the machine so care for this skirt will be a cinch. The pattern is from 1985 and I made a few changes to suit current style and my taste. I shortened the skirt so that it was a little more modern and added belt loops.

I added the rayon lining, diamond white, which was a breeze to put on the inside. The pattern didn't call for a lining but I preferred one to prevent the cotton from sticking to leggings or nylons if I ever wore them. It also has more of a high-end feel for me.

I used scraps of lining to seam finish the skirt seams

and pockets with a Hong Kong binding.

Originally one side pocket was left as a flap that buttoned at the waist to close it. It was a perfect set-up for a zipper because the pocket front crosses over the back slightly to hide the opening. I added the zipper here and, thus, the zipper is an invisible zipper!

You look lovely, Abby!

2011-11-25T15:00:00.001-06:00

Pattern Review McCalls 6319, View A

Wings and Stripes (sold out)

This fabric is so soft and light, it's so comfortable. This is the second dress I've made from this McCalls pattern. I changed the pleats at the shoulder and waistline to gathers instead. They worked beautifully on this fabric and I love the look better.

The tricot lining was perfect. I was a little concerned about the light color of the lining so I took the neckline part of the lining and created a facing out of the garment fabric. I wanted the neck to blend from outside to inside just in case.

Elastic is sewn to the waistband to cinch it in and it's the perfect place for a belt!

A perfect 5 hour project!

Another great outfit, Abby!

2011-11-23T19:10:00.000-06:00

Pattern Review Butterick 5610

High Rise

Sku #S1103

100% Silk

$7.50

This silk crepe de chine fabric was an exciting challenge for me. It's my first time working with silk and the first time working with crepe de chine! Overall, the fabric was easy to manipulate and use. The pleats in the front add just a little body to the shirt.

I used french seams on all seams edges to prevent fraying and to keep the inside clean.

I hand sewed the neck facing down (I prefer hand sewing over stitch in the ditch for most fabrics anyway). I also ended up hand sewing the sleeve and bottom hems after 3 attempts using a normal machine stitch. I'm glad, however, that the machine and fabric weren't getting along on the hems despite my strong desire to give up because the hand stitching is completely invisible and looks fabulous.

Thanks Abby!!!

2011-11-09T18:32:00.000-06:00

Last Fabrics for October 2011

Sku #P4162

Amber Knit

45"

100% Polyester

$12.00

Sku #P4161

Glacier Grey Knit

50"

100% Polyester

$12.00

This is a fabulous knit that will take you from the office to cocktails. The hand is stable with a very fine rib and subtle sheen. The knit is dress weight with good crosswise stretch and slight lengthwise stretch. Perfect for cardigans, shells, dress or skirts.

Sewl Mate

Sku #CPM30513092

Brocade-Gold/Cream

60"

84% Cotton 8% Polyester 8% Metallic

$25.00

Sku #V3121

Animal Instinct

52"

100% Viscose

$20.00

Construction in Progress

Interfacing-Bosal Sheer Fusible Tricot
YKK Invisible Zipper #A893
Gutermann Thread #520

Schmetz Stretch Needles
Gutermann Thread #100
Stay Tape

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 11/2011 #121

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5472, 5673, McCalls 6441, 6462, Simplicity 2154, 3533, Vogue 1058, 8667

Sewing Tip: You don't need to use facings. Just turn the edges under and topstitch.

2011-10-30T13:40:00.000-05:00

Burda Style November 2011

All Styles at a Glance

Line Drawings

Cocktail Hour

Dress #125

New take on a wrap top

Top #121

This knit top is the sewing lesson of the month.

Top #114A

Top trend of the fall-faux fur!

Coat #101

High waisted pencil skirt

Skirt #109

Pant pattern for real leather

Pants #108B

Plus Size

Love the deep inverted pleat!

Skirt #135

Beautiful neckline/waistline details

Blouse #130

To purchase, go to www.smfabric.com

2011-10-19T14:59:00.000-05:00

More New Fabrics for October 2011

Sku# AP2157

Cream/Brown Faux Fur

60"

Acrylic/Polyester

$49.00

Designer-Tibi

Fur is a leading trend for Fall 2011. This stunning faux fur has a very luxurious feel with the look of pelts sewn together. The colors are cream and brown. Make a vest, jacket, coat, detachable collar/cuff or a fabulous pillow.

Sewl Mate

Sku# CL2156

Blue Denim

50"

Cotton/Lycra

$14.00

Construction in Progress

Lining-Mocha Satin

Gutermann thread # 506, 524

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 09/2011 #114

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 3311, 5265, McCalls 4975, 6443, Simplicity 1943, 2150

Vogue 1201, 1276

Sewing Tip: Trace your pattern on the fur backing using tailors chalk. Then cut through the backing only.

Sku #CL216

Blue Denim

50"

Cotton/Lycra

$14.00

Designer-Tibi

Good quality denim is something you always want in your stash! This mid-weight denim has a lovely "broken in feel". The blue is not to dark or to light. Make a dress, jacket, skirt or pants. Accent with topstitching or faux fur.

Sewl Mate

Sku #SL1135

Floral Paisley Stretch Georgette

49"

97% Silk 3% Lycra

$20.00

Construction in Progress

Buttons: Antique Silver Crest with Gold Rim 5/8" $1.20, 3/4" $1.60

Gutermann thread #267, 870

Machine Needle-Jean Needle

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 09/2011 #102

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5649, 5682, McCalls 6246, 6324, Simplicity 2056, 2451,

Vogue 8604, 8774

Sewing Tip: Use heavy duty thread or 2 spools of thread threaded together for topstitching.

2011-10-11T18:59:00.000-05:00

New Fabrics for October 2011

Sku# CR1153
Black/Cream Eyelash

58"

Cotton/Rayon

$28.00

Designer-Tibi

This is a wonderful woven cotton brocade. The base fabric is slightly heavier than batiste weight. The abstract floral has a mottled pattern outlined with "eyelashes" in cream. Slightly sheer (you'll need a lining) the hand is a little crisp but pliable. Beautiful for vintage style dresses, tunics or light weight jackets.

Sewl Mate

Sku #CS2137

Cream Stretch Sateen

48"

95% Cotton

5% Spandex

$17.00

Construction in Progress

Rayon Lining-Black
Buttons: Around the Bend 1-3/16" $1.25
Silky Vanilla 4-hole 1-1/8" $2.10
Gutermann thread 010, 021
YKK invisible zipper #580
Interfacing-Bosal Sheer Fusible Tricot

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 10/2011 #120

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 3345, 5640, McCalls 5927, 6122, Simplicity 2246, 2444, Vogue 1246, 1269

Sewing Tip: Use a single fold layout to accurately match the pattern.

Sku #CV2151

Diamond Jacquard

60"

Viscose/Cotton

$28.00

Designer-Tibi

This is a gorgeous dress weight novelty weave from Tibi. Nubby, thick threads form an overall diamond shape pattern. The hand is loosely woven with good drape. The colors are cornflower blue and ecru. Make a tunic, an A-line skirt or a wrap blouse.

Sewl Mate

Sku #2129

Parchment Cotton Voile

60"

100% Cotton

$8.00

Construction in Progress

Rayon Lining-Aqua Marine

Button: Grains of Sand 7/8" $2.00

YKK Invisible Zipper #546

Gutermann #215,#506

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 5/2011 #121

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5214, 5467, McCalls 5430, 5431, Simplicity 2451, 2655, Vogue 8604, 8605

Sewing Tip: Fuse areas that need stability with Bosal Sheer Fusible Interfacing.

Sku #2152

Woven Shadows

60"

100% Cotton

$20.00

Designer-Tibi

This is a gorgeous dress weight novelty weave from Tibi. The 1" check pattern fades from ivory to cornflower blue and has a nubby feel. The hand has a "weighty" drape. Make a dress, skirt or shrug jacket.

Sewl Mate

Sku #CNE 3080

White Shirting

45"

65% Cotton 30% Nylon 5% Elastine

$13.00

Construction in Progress

Rayon Lining- Aqua Marine

Buttons: Silver Streak 5/8" $1.05

Etched in White 11/16" $.50

Gutermann thread #215

YKK Invisible Zipper #546

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 8/2011 #127

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5600, 5603, McCalls 6279, 6407, Simplicity 2337, 2443, Vogue 8743, 8765

Sewing Tip: Use Stay-Tape at the shoulders, neckline and waistline.

Sku #W4154

Purple/Black Reversible Knit

60"

Wool/Lycra

$28.00

Designer-Tibi

Reversible fabrics are like getting 2 for the price of 1! One side of this dress weight wool double knit is purple and the other is black. Perfect for cardigans, tops, or wrap skirts where the other side is seen.

Sewl Mate

The good thing about reversible fabrics are that they come with their own mate!

Construction in Progress

Interfacing-Bosal Fusible Tricot

Gutermann thread #943

YKK Invisible Zipper #866

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 10/2011 #135A

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5673, 5677, McCalls 5890, 6432,
New Look 6786, Simplicity 2054, Vogue 8685, 8699

Sewing Tip: Preshrink this fabric by steaming with a iron held slightly above the fabric not on the fabric.

2011-10-02T18:11:00.000-05:00

Pattern Review Simplicity 3786 view E

Samina has shared this pattern review with us.

Fabric: Sheer, crinkly coral cotton.

(sold out)

Pre-treatment: machine-washed in a delicate cold water cycle and hung to dry. Of course it will crinkle substantially, and it will shrink. Ironing it will get it back to a smoother texture. Be aware that even after ironing it out, the fabric shrank by 4 inches. No problem for me as there was still enough for the blouse. If the end garment is going to be dry cleaned, of course there is no need to pre-treat; but I like to make everyday clothing.

Sewing this pattern went smoothly. I love that the panel in the front is made separately with shoulder-to-hem princess lines. It gives an opportunity for fit.

Due to the delicate nature of the fabric, french seams would have been ideal, but I used Seams Great as a seam-finish – just because. Serging the seams was nixed because I think that is too much thread in a delicate fabric.

There was an “uh-oh” moment with the tucks and neckline – both these things were carelessness on my part. Since this fabric is sheer, ripping the seam would have been disastrous. So, note to the self (and others): do not make errors when sewing this kind of fabric!

To keep the sheer look, I did not line this blouse, but wear it with a skin colored camisole. Be sure that the neckline of the cami is lower than the neck opening. I had to deal with that issue………

I love this blouse!! It has been worn throughout the summer with white pants & sandals, as well as jeans. If the warm weather continues, I will continue wearing it with darker bottoms and booties. This coral color looks great with gold jewelry in smaller delicate shapes, since large jewelry seems to overwhelm the delicate fabric. I’ve also used a Missoni scarf (real Missoni, y’all!) with coordinating colors. I would love to hear about other styling options………….

Cleaning the finished garment: it will continue to crinkle up and seem to shrink every time it’s washed. I always stretch it out when still wet and hang it up to dry. Dry cleaning is a good option, but I prefer not to spend money on dry cleaning on something I wear so repeatedly. I’d rather spend those dollars on fabric. So what’ve you got, Roz?

Samina, you did a great job. Thanks for the review!

2011-09-30T21:42:00.001-05:00

Pattern Review Vogue 1014

Joanne's Mother of the Groom Dress

I saw the pattern before I had considered what a Mother of the Groom should wear. It seemed just right to me. The first few people that I showed the pattern to agreed it was a Mother of the Groom dress.

The first week of June, Jeni took my measurements. That gave me an idea of what size I should try to draw. However, the pattern pieces were not usual and I

was unsure of just where to enlarge for hips or bust.

I made a muslin. I made some adjustments to the muslin. Then I called on Eileen to come help adjust the backside. We decided to insert a triangular piece in the back. That made it difficult to smooth the muslin pattern flat.

I also decided that my narrow and sloping

shoulders were not going to support a boat

neckline. I rounded the neckline of the

muslin.

Once the muslin was made, I was ready for the fabric. I had chosen a polyester satin back crepe. Or is a crepe back satin. I

have always wondered and for this dress it would be both. I decided on a deep turquoise.

Sku #P5013

Satin Back Crepe-Deep Turquoise

60"

100% Polyester

$11.00

Eileen showed me how to make a narrow

French hem for the edges of the drape pieces.

Then I gathered the drape to one side with a fabric loop.

The line for the zipper was on the bias.

One side of the zipper allowance needed

to be eased to the other side. Roz

reminded me to stabilize the seam allowance

where the zipper would go.

A pretty invisible zipper!

At the July Sewing Fashionistas meeting,

Bernadette spent a lot of time adjusting

the fullness at my right hip and a dart.

The dart ran diagonally from the back to

the bust. Then she gave me more help

via email. And I kept smoothing the back.

This is the ambiance lining that is very cool to wear and very slippery to touch. I marked all lines on the lining to help with construction.

The lining fit. The dress fit. I made several

adjustments to the neckline to get it just right.

I added some fullness to the sleeve and then

basted it in place. Adjusted and basted it again.

When it felt right and looked smooth I stitched

the dress sleeve into place and then blind

stitched the lining over the seam allowance.

Now I had to think about more than the dress.

Should the hair be up or down.

Choose some shoes.

I made thread loops to hold the

dress on my shoulder straps.It was amazing

what this did for the fit of the neckline.

When I was ready to hem, Peggy came over and marked the hem. She has a wonderful eye for that and turned it up smoothly without the use of the yardstick. I could tell by the feel that it was straight. Peggy had good suggestions about the drape. Rita was willing to come mark the hem. However, it was the first week of school for both of us and schedules just didn’t match. The dress is ready with a couple of days to spare.

Finally I chose jewelry that was a little bulkier than I usually wear. I had my hair put half up but left it hanging a little on my neck.

Dancing with my husband

Dancing with my son, the groom

Thanks Joanne for sharing your special day!

2011-09-27T17:44:00.000-05:00

Burda Style October 2011

All Styles at a Glance

Line Drawings

Classic Chanel Style

dress #116

These pieces work great together, but will also style well with other garments.

blouse #121

pants #124A

Casual Chic

blouse #128A

skirt #119B

Love the oversized patch pockets

coat #106

This wrap dress has a flounce on the front skirt.

dress #123A

Plus Size

Following the color blocking trend.

blouse #135B

skirt 136A

belt #152

This dress has interesting pleats.

dress #138A

A-line coat

coat #134

To purchase, go to smfabric.com

2011-09-27T16:46:00.000-05:00

Graduation Day-Day 6 of Couture Sewing School

In the immortal words of Forest Gump-"Life is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you are going to get." Well, I was so fortunate to have a 1st class box of chocolates with this dynamic group of ladies! I enjoyed getting to know each and everyone of them. We laughed (a lot) and did a our "happy dance" with one another with each success we obtained. Susan is an incredible teacher. She instills patience and self confidence in each student. And I would like a tenth of the energy she has!!! I strongly recommend a class with her!!! I also have to give a huge shout out to the Hilton Garden Inn in Katy TX. They treated us like VIPS! Kim Remlinger and her staff provided for all of our needs. Coffee (caffeinated and decaf), tea and water were provided all day long. An afternoon snack (cookies, pretzels) was brought in to help with that afternoon slump. The location is great with easy access to sandwich shops, Starbucks, and other restaurants. A Walmart and Outlet Mall are within 2 minutes. We had so much fun that we'll do it again next year at the same location!!!

The Class Photo

photo credit to Myk Fenstermacher (husband of Liz)

2011-09-26T19:57:00.001-05:00

Are We There Yet?-Day 5 of Couture Sewing School

Our garments are finally coming together and really looking good!!

With Susan's tutelage we were able to do some amazing projects!

2011-09-26T19:30:00.000-05:00

Learning Couture Techniques-Day 4

We learned so many skills that improved our sewing and fitting!

Susan is very encouraging, inspiring and generous with her knowledge.

A fitting session

Applying boning and cups

Hand picked zipper

Pressing

Lace placement

Catch stitching seam allowances

All hands on deck when working with tulle!

We all learned so much from each others projects!

2011-09-21T14:02:00.000-05:00

Needle to Fabric- Day 3 of Couture Sewing School

The individual pattern pieces are coming together and taking shape!

Ready to quilt the lining!

Demonstrating a technique

Gorgeous Projects!

Projects are coming to life!

2011-09-21T13:13:00.000-05:00

Measure twice and cut once!-Day 2 of Couture Sewing School

We refined and tweaked our toiles to perfection with the guidance of Susan Khalje. She is truly amazing in detecting the nuances for perfect fit.

One the fit was refined, the toile is taken apart. The toile is now our pattern.

Wide seam allowances are used in couture sewing.

Then the stitching line is thread traced.

Underlining is applied with a hand basting stitch.

We are having a blast!

2011-09-06T22:25:00.001-05:00

Toiles are your friend-Day 1 of Couture Sewing School

I had a wonderful time meeting all of the ladies in class. We got to know one another and discuss our projects. Projects range from working with lace, Chanel styled jackets to day dresses.

But first we worked on preparing and perfecting our toiles.

Sewing it all together

Marking the stitching line

Taking notes

Getting more inspriations

Tomorrow we will continue with fitting.

2011-09-05T21:19:00.000-05:00

Couture Sewing School Starts Tomorrow!

Tomorrow is the first day of the Couture Sewing Class with Susan Khalje.

I'm looking forward to taking my sewing to a new level.

I'll be making a lace bustier with this fabric

from Prabal Gurung.

My toile is ready!

A few of the class members got together a few weeks ago

and helped each other with fitting.

They're ready, too!

I'll share my class notes throughout the week.

2011-08-28T19:24:00.001-05:00

Burda Style September 2011

All Styles at a Glance

Line Drawings

New trend-Contrasting Fur Sleeves

Coat #114

Sunday Brunch

T-shirt #108A

Skirt #110A

Color Blocking

Jacket #102

Skirt #133

Love the contrast sleeve!

Dress #112

Plus Size

Outside seam allowances

Jacket #141

Velvet touch

Jacket #142

Blouse #138B

Hat Patterns!

To purchase, go to www.smfabric.com

2011-08-27T20:15:00.000-05:00

Burda Plus Size Fall 2011

All Styles at a Glance

Line Drawings

Elegant and Easy

coat #405

Nice touches at the neckline and sleeve

Tunic #408

Weekend causal

Sleeveless Jacket #415

Knit Top #403C

Skirt #417

Different take on the white blouse

Blouse #428A

To purchase, go to www.smfabric.com

2011-08-22T16:41:00.000-05:00

More New Fabrics August 2011

Sku #L2140

Orange Sherbet Linen

60"

100% Linen

$13.00

This is an Italian dress weight in a beautiful orange sherbet color. Make a classic blouse or a lovely A-line dress.

Sewl Mate

Sku #C2128

Rust/Turquoise Tribal Print

60"

100% Cotton

$10.00

Construction in Progress

Buttons: Gumdrop 7/8" $6.00

Tango 3/4" $.70

Gutermann Thread #460

Rayon Hem Tape Orange

YKK Invisible Zipper #523

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 8/2011 #119

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5558, 5640, McCalls 6332, 6349, Simplicity 2365, 2373, Vogue 1175, 8755

Sewing Tip: Linen is a great fabric for bias cut skirts or dresses.

Sku #LR2141

Orange Sherbet/Natural Stripe

60"

Linen/Rayon

$15.00

This is a wonderful woven stripe linen blend from Italy. Dress weight with soft drape, the colorway is orange sherbet, natural and off white. This coordinates with the orange sherbet and natural linens. Make an A-line skirt, tunic or dress.

Sewl Mate

Orange Sherbet Linen

(see above)

Construction in Progress

Interfacing-Bosal-Sheer Fusible Interfacing

Buttons-Orange Clay 7/8" $4.50

YKK Invisible Zipper #572

Gutermann thread #030, 460

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 8/2011 #117C

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5612, 5620, McCalls 6346, 6354, Simplicity 2177, 2191, Vogue 1246, 8725

Sewing Tips: Stabilize this woven fabric with fusible interfacing.

Sku #L2143

Natural Linen

60"

100% Linen

$13.00

This is an Italian dress weight in a beautiful natural color. Make a classic blouse or a lovely A-line dress.

Sewl Mate

Orange Sherbet/Natural Stripe

(see above)

Construction in Progress

Buttons- Linked with Taupe 7/8" $4.60

Buff 7/8" $2.75

Gutermann Thread #70

YKK Invisible Zipper #572

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 8/2011 #109

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5490, 5556, McCalls 6122, 6401, Simplicity 2215, 2226, Vogue 1236, 8658

Sewing Tip: Prewash linen for softer hand.

Sku #LR2142

Orange Tweed

60"

Linen/Rayon

$15.00

This linen blend from Italy is a great transition fabric for heading into fall. The tweed is tightly woven with a smooth surface and a nice drape. The colorway is amber, red violet, black and cream. Sew a jacket or sheath dress.

Sewl Mate

Sku #SL1135

Floral/Paisley Stretch Georgette

49"

97% Silk 3% Lycra

$20.00

Construction in Progress

Interfacing-Bosal Sheer Fusible Tricot

Buttons-Cinnamon Swirl Cowgirl 1-1/8" $2.50

Half and Half 7/8" $2.20

Gutermann Thread #504

YKK Invisible Zipper #893

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 8/2011 #125

Pattern Suggestions: Buttterick 5455, 5598, McCalls 5927, 6286, Simplicity 2155, 2227, Vogue 1222, 1233

Sewing Tip: Use Stay-Tape for shoulder and neckline seams.

Sku #WR1144

Navy/White Reversible Check

60"

$17.00

Reversible fabrics offer lots of creative options. Suit weight, the colors are classic navy and white. The checks are 1/2" which makes matching easier. Make a sheath dress, pencil skirt, jacket or vest.

Sewl Mate

Sku #2136

Navy Stretch Sateen

45"

97% Cotton 3% Lycra

$12.00

Construction in Progress

Rayon Lining-Navy

Buttons-Navy Sparkle 13/16" $.65

Navy/Pearl 7/8" $2.50

YKK Invisible Zipper #071

Gutermann Thread #021, 278

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 8/2011 #127

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5520, 5601, McCalls 5887, 6394, Simplicity 2229, 2340, Vogue 1237, 8687

Sewing Tip: In place of facings, use bias binding in a matching or contrasting color to finish the edges.

2011-08-04T11:05:00.001-05:00

Burda Style August 2011

All Styles at a Glance

Line Drawings

These knit pants are wonderful-no elastic!

Top #104

Pants #130B

By using two different fabrics this looks like a 2-piece, but it's a dress.

Dress #126B

I like the downtown feel this cape has with jeans.

Cape #112

Military chic!

Jacket #102

Great neckline-pattern is in tall size

Dress #125

Plus Size

Polished weekend look

Blouse #138

Pants #137

Love the hemline!

Dress #140

Accessories

Purse #154

To purchase, go to www.smfabric.com

2011-08-03T14:37:00.000-05:00

New Fabrics For August 2011

Sku #CS2138

Black Foliage

45"

96% Cotton 4% Spandex

$16.00

Designer-Maggy London

This is a dress weight stretch (crosswise only) cotton sateen. The print is a wonderful foliage print in black, dark taupe, ecru and white. Make an unlined jacket, sheath dress or capri pants for summer.

Sewl Mates

Sku #LCE2052

White Stretch Linen

56"

60% Linen 308% Cotton 2% Elastine

$9.50

Construction in Progress

Button: Ebony Glass 1-1/8" $1.50

YKK invisible zipper #501

Gutermann thread #010, 020,

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 5/2011 #112B

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5333, 5647, McCalls 6038, 6278, Simplicity 2176, 2212,
Vogue 1110, 1174

Sewing Tip: Use interfacing in any area you want to topstitch.

Sku #CS2137

Cream Stretch Sateen

48"

95% Cotton 5% Spandex

$17.00

This is a great fabric for summer! It has good crosswise stretch and is a dress weight sateen in a lovely cream color-just right for pants, jackets or pencil skirts.

Sewl Mates

Sku #PN30130073

Cream Ribbon/Lace

49"

50% Polyester 50% Nylon

$6.00

Construction in Progress

YKK Invisible Zipper # 801

Gutermann thread #030

Rayon Hem Tape Si& lk White

Buttons: Pearl & Chain 13/16" $3.25

Fossil 1-7/16" $6.00

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 5/2011 #124 (capris)

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5466, 5614, McCalls 6322, 6324, Simplicity 2146, 2152,
Vogue 1231, 8697

Sewing Tip: Calculate your yardage using the "with nap" chart.

Sku #RS4139

Denim Blue Knit

59"

92% Rayon 8% Spandex

$15.00

Designer-Eileen Fisher

You will want this gorgeous denim blue ponte knit in your stash! The stretch is very good both crosswise and lengthwise with a lovely drape. Make a wrap dress, cardigan jacket or leggings.

Sewl Mate

Sku #CL2136

Navy Stretch Sateen

45"

97% Cotton 3% Lycra

$12.00

Construction in Progress

Bosal-Sheer Fusible Tricot

YKK Invisible Zipper #560

Gutermann Thread #118

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 4/2011 #119A

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5559, 5657, McCalls 6112, 6281, Simplicity 2283, 2560, Vogue 1257, 8667

Sewing Tip: All purpose polyester thread works well with knits because it has stretch.

2011-07-18T16:07:00.000-05:00

Pattern Review McCalls5817, View A

or my ode to the "Safari Trend"

This pattern is out of print but still available on the McCalls website here.

Sku# S1095

Caramel Silk Matka

57"

100% Silk

$20.00

Prewash: None-I will dry clean this.

Notions: Rayon Lining-Bark, Gutermann thread #520, Bosal-Sheer Fusible Tricot, Twill Tape, Buttons: Toasted Bagel

Alterations: I did my usual FBA.

The pattern is well drafted with an upper collar and and a proper under collar that is cut on the bias and slightly smaller than the upper collar. I did have to establish the roll line for the lapel and collar. I also added an 1/8" to the lapel so it would properly roll to the wrong side.

Construction Details

Roll Line

Collar/Lapel

Pockets

Hem

Additional Views
Front
Skirt review is here.

Side

Back

With brown eyelet dress reviewed here.

Conclusion: The pattern drafting is very good and could have rated excellent if McCalls had included the roll line. This safari look has been a fashion trend for a few seasons but it never really goes away. I think this pattern is a classic nod to the trend. This would also look great in the Navy Stretch Sateen or Black Foliage.

2011-07-12T16:46:00.000-05:00

New Fabrics for July 2011

Sku #SL1135

Floral/Paisley Stretch Georgette

49"

97% Silk 3% Lyca

$20.00

Designer-Thakoon

This is a beautiful floral/paisley print from designer Thakoon. The fabric is semi sheer with excellent crosswise stretch-none lengthwise. The colorway is navy, yellow, tomato red, turquoise, olive drab and ecru. Make a blouse, maxi dress, or palazzo pants.

Sewl Mate

Sku #W1093

Honey Butter Super 100

60"

100% Wool

$25.00

Construction is Progress

YKK Invisible Zipper #518
Buttons: Lake of Pearl 11/16" $2.00
Golden Knot 1/2" $.45
Gutermann thread #'s 431, 827, 276, 248, 523, 022

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 04/2011 #108

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5177, 5646, McCalls 6119, 6125, Simplicity 2175, 2179, Vogue 1207, 1240

Sewing Tip: Use the fabric as its own interfacing.

Sku #CL2136

Navy Stretch Sateen

45"

97% Cotton 3% Lycra

$12.00

The gorgeous navy stretch sateen is from Italy. Perfect for year around wear, the hand of the fabric has a wonderful soft drape not stiff at all. Make a skirt, shorts or jacket.

Sewl Mate

Floral/Paisley Stretch Georgette

(see above)

Construction in Progress

Rayon Lining-Navy

Buttons: Mood Ring 7/8" $1.05

Navy/Gold Anchor 1" $3.75

Ykk Invisible Zipper #560

Gutermann Thread #278

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 6/2011 #123 (pants)

Pattern Suggestion: Butterick 5601, 5638, McCalls 6246, 6332, Simplicity 2256, 2258, Vogue 1214, 8717

Sewing Tip: Use "with nap" when calculating yardage and layout.

2011-07-01T21:49:00.000-05:00

Burda Style July 2011

All Styles at a Glance

Line Drawings

Beach Vacation!

#106

This looks so cool for summer shopping-and it has pockets.

Top #128

Dress for Petites

#110

The blouse is feminine and soft.

Blouse #120

Pant #125A (tall size)

Plus Size

Stepping out

#134

Glamorous

#132

Classic Sheath

#139

So Sweet

#146

To purchase, go to www.smfabric.com

2011-06-25T19:25:00.000-05:00

New Fabrics for June 2011

Sku #C2132
Ebony Rose
60"
100% Cotton
$17.00
Designer-Sarah Campbell

The creamy background with contrasting black roses give this fabric an edgy feel. This fabric has a twill weave, smooth surface and a nice sheen-very reminiscent of a man's tie! The overall hand is firm but not stiff. Make a jacket, trench coat or pencil skirt.

Sewl Mate

Sku #CE4087
Black T-Shirt Knit
60"
95% Cotton 5% Elastic
$17.00

Construction in Progress

Rayon Lining-Black
YKK Invisible Zipper #K055
Buttons: Ebony Glass 1-1/8" $1.50
Crater 1" $4.90
Gutermann thread # 800, #010

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 04/2011 #130

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5601, 5603, McCalls 6318, 6323, Simplicity 2451, 2452, Vogue 1100, 1230

Sewing Tip: Use a press cloth to protect the fabric.

Sku #C2133
Azure Pima Cotton Knit
60"
100% Pima Cotton Knit
$14.00

This is a light weight T-shirt knit in a fabulous color azure blue. The hand has a luxurious, cottony feel with good crosswise stretch and slightly less stretch lengthwise. Make a fun top with ruching, draping or pleats

Sewl Mate

Sku #2120
Calming Waters
100% Cotton Lawn
$15.00

Construction in Progress

Interfacing-Bosal Sheer Fusible Tricot
Gutermann thread #251
Clear Elastic

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 05/2011 #107B

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5606, 5643, McCalls 6347, 6356, Simplicity 2181, 2190, Vogue 1225, 8731

Sewing Tip: Leave the edges raw-the fabric won't ravel.

2011-06-01T17:33:00.000-05:00

Burda Style June 2011

All Styles at a Glance

Line Drawings

This is a fun summer dress! Add straps for a different look.

#103C

For Petites a little Brigitte Bardot

top #122

pants #123

Design house Blumarine

#139

Out of silk this could be worn to a wedding

or out of cotton lawn to the grocery store!

blouse #101

skirt #117A

Plus Size

This looks chic yet comfortable for traveling

jacket #126

Love the color blocking

#129

To purchase go to www.smfabric.com.

2011-05-26T17:56:00.001-05:00

Pattern Review McCalls 6319, View A

Abby is a member of our local Sewing Fashionistas group and a Home Ec teacher at a local area high school. She slipped this sewing project in while working on a more complex dress and this is her pattern review.

Sku #RS4109

Kaleidoscope Print Knit

60"

97% Rayon 3% Spandex

$16.00

This really was the perfect weekend project. I didn't make many changes. I cut a larger size than my usual but I was envisioning a loose fit with a little flow to it. I sewed a casing on the inside for the elastic. It just felt wrong to me to have it in the seam not attached-it's very possible I was reading the directions wrong. I didn't really look at them too much to be honest. I think I like having the small gathered section visible on the outside for now. If I decide I don't like it, I can just change it up! I guess that's a benefit of being able to sew.

The lining was easy to work with and feels like its not even there. It was easy to understitch and stretches nicely. I may add a skirt lining later because I'm afraid the fabric may ride a little up my leg. We'll see when I actually wear it in public.

I cut the shoulder pleats down to three instead of four. The fourth one stuck out too far on my narrow shoulders. I do wish the underarm was a little higher. I'll keep that in mind for future cap sleeve designs.

Accessorized with a belt

and with a cardigan and belt

Great fabric to work with, steamed perfectly, washed perfectly, feels great, stretched great (and that's using only a sewing machine).

Thanks Abby for sharing your pattern review with me!

2011-05-18T21:51:00.001-05:00

Guest Blogger Talks About Bernina My Label 3D Fashion Pattern Software
Part I

Ronnie* is my guest blogger and will be sharing in a series of posts her experience with Bernina My Label. You can visit Ronnie at It's a Stitch to get an up close and personal look at the program.

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My interest in the Bernina My Label software was born from my frustration in fitting commercial patterns. Numerous pattern fitting books led me to question what adjustments I need to make-forward shoulder or rounded back? Why can't I move my arms freely? On and on it has gone until I purchased the software. The My Label software has taken the headache out of pattern alterations for me. Although I have successfully used the software to make the T-shirt, tunic, flared pants and tailored shirt, I am just a novice using the software. Let me share a few things that I have learned so far about the software.

In the software there are 6 drawers- models drawer, styles drawer, fabrics drawer, stitches drawer, embroideries drawer and a buttons drawer. The models drawer is where you measurements are stored. You can save up to 99 different sets of measurements as different models.

The Styles drawer is where the different garment styles are located and selected from. You can change the design ease of a garment in the styles drawer. Any change in measurement in the styles drawer changes the garment and not the model. Meet Nina, the model built in the software. The large grey area is the work table where your pattern will be located when you choose a style.

We can select garments from the styles drawer to dress Nina and see how they will look with her body style. In the next screen shot you can see that I selected a dark indigo denim for the flared pants and a white linen for the yoked jacket to dress Nina. We can also rotate Nina to see how the garment will look from the back.

There are 43 measurements that need to be taken. It is critical that accurate measurements are taken to achieve a good pattern fit. This can be accomplished by using the measurement accessory kit and the on-screen guide in the software to tell you exactly how and where to measure. I found that metric measurements gave the most accurate fit.

I am sure by now that you are curious regarding the designs incorporated in the software. There are a total of 20 classic pattern designs. These include a 3/4 length coat, 5 jackets, 5 tops, 1 vest, 3 skirts, 3 pants and 2 dress patterns. There are an additional 6 free designs to download from a link on the Bernina USA website www.berninausa.com. The download designs include a trouser, a 5-pocket jean, 2 shirt patterns, 2 jackets and 1 skirt pattern. Even with a limited number of designs in the software your options are unlimited. There are numerous educational presentations on the Bernina website that show how to modify these design to produce endless style variations and how to use your custom My Label pattern to modify commercial patterns to achieve a perfect fit without a lot of guess work. I am looking forward to altering my next commercial pattern with one of My Label patterns. I just wish there were more hours in the day or that I didn't need much sleep!

The program also allows you to add placement lines to the pattern for embellishment or style variations. There are many fabrics, buttons, embroider and stitch choices in labeled drawers that you can select for your pattern style and dress your your personal 3D model just like you would a paper doll. This allows you to visualize how this garment looks on your body type. If you would like to see the garment made in your fabric, you can scan in your fabric and view the garment with your specific fabric. The optimum size ranges for the best fit with the software are as follows.

Height 5'-6'6"

Bust 30"-50"

Hip 33"-51"

If your measurements fall outside of these ranges, you can achieve fit by adding ease in the style measurement properties (this is where you can add design ease to your garment if you wish).

There are certain hardware requirements for My Label due to the 3D modeling for the model. The minimum requirements are as follows.

Operating System: Windows XP SP2 or Vista

Processor Speed: Intel Pentium IV @ 2.4 GHz

RAM: 1024 MB

Graphics Card (with 3D accelerator) SVGA card 128 MB or higher (no shared memory)

Display Resolution: 1024 X 768

USB Port for Dongle Security Key

HDD Free Space: 1 GB min.

Service Pack 1 needs to be downloaded from hhtp://www.berninamylabel.com for Vista or Windows 7 to run the software. I am currently running My Label on a 64 bit Windows 7 PC with a non-intergrated graphics card and I have had no problems with the software.

I am looking forward to sharing more of my experiences with My Label in future blog posts. Can't wait to show my T-shirt I made with one of Roz's gorgeous knits from Sew Much Fabric!

*Ronnie's Sewing Background

My mother taught me to sew around the age 10. We made Barbie doll clothes-a whole wardrobe for my sister's Barbie for Christmas. She was one stylin' doll! I would like to sew all my clothes, but am just not organized enough to have the time. My current passion is couture although I also love to make capris and cotton shirts for summer casual. I sew because it is a creative outlet and I can't afford the expensive clothes that I prefer in the stores. I am a fabric snob and very tactile with a preference for natural fabrics. It has to feel good. All of my sewing machines are Bernina's. I don't have a favorite item to sew and go with whatever I am inspired to sew or need.